Armchair Expert with Dax Shepard

Podbit · Armchair Expert with Dax Shepard

Steve Aoki

Explore episode Jun 22, 2026
Business
Benihana Was Almost a Total Failure

Steve Aoki · Jun 22, 2026 Business

When Rocky Aoki opened Benihana on 56th Street in the 1960s, he was selling Japanese food to a white American audience that had never seen anything like it. Business was so slow the venture nearly collapsed — until a single New York Times review turned everything around. One critic, one article, one chance: that's how Benihana survived.

Where this was said

Rocky Aoki: Benihana, Boats & the Evel Knievel of Restaurateurs

At 9:10 · chapter starts 6:15

This is the episode's showpiece chapter — a biographical portrait of one of the most improbable American success stories of the 20th century. Rocky Aoki came to the US with a wrestling scholarship and no English, tried to run an ice cream truck in Harlem with a Japanese wrestler painted on the side, and somehow ended up opening a Japanese restaurant on 56th Street in Manhattan aimed squarely at white American diners. The twist Steve drops — that cooking at the table in front of guests is not a Japanese concept at all, but an American invention by his father — reframes everything most Americans think they know about Benihana. The restaurant nearly died in its early years, saved only by an effusive New York Times review that turned the tide overnight. By the 1970s Rocky was scaling it privately, and by 1983 the company went public. The proceeds funded a life of spectacular excess: offshore powerboat racing (he nearly died under the Golden Gate Bridge), Genesis Magazine (later sold to Larry Flynt), and being part of the crew that completed the first Trans-Pacific hot air balloon crossing in 1981.

Society & Culture
Rocky Aoki: 3 kids from 3 women simultaneously

Steve Aoki · Jun 22, 2026

Rocky Aoki reportedly fathered three children from three different women at the exact same time, which was revealed when he emerged from a coma to find both his wife and his girlfriend at his bedside.

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